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Trastevere quarter
The name of Trastevere derives
from Latin "Trans Tiber" (across the Tiber).
During the ancient Roman period it was a green neighbourhood belonging
to noble families, including that of Julius Caesar. Cleopatra is
thought to have lived here. In that epoch it was still encircles by the walls, and the
gates were Porta Portese and Porta San Pancrazio.
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Santa Maria in Trastevere church and square |
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APARTMENTS FOR RENT NEAR THIS
AREA
"BRAMANTE": a charming, quaint, large one bedroom apt. with sitting /dining room and 2 lofts obtained from a little church. Up to 4 persons
"ROMAN ROOFS" : a one bedroom top floor apt. with ample sitting-dining room, patio and panoramic terrace overlooking old Rome's roofs and sights.
"MARCO POLO", a one bedroom, sitting room attic with large roof garden with spectacular views of all Rome (2-3 persons). Elevator
"BOTTICELLI": elegant 2 double bedroom, sitting room, dining room 2 bathroom apt., with patio and fireplace (4-5 persons). Elevator.
"ROMAN VISTA": an elegant 3 bedroom 3 bathroom penthouse, with sitting room and separate dining room, with panoramic views of old Rome, in an elegant historical palace facing the famous Tortoise fountain. Daily cleaning. Elevator.
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After the fall of the Roman empire it became a quarter
of Jewish trading communities. In the early Middle Ages the
Jews moved to the other side of the river (the quarter that
later became the Ghetto), and Trastevere became the main working-class
district of the capital. The inhabitant boast the quarter
as "er core de Roma" (the heart of Rome).
Nowadays it is a picturesque and artistic quarter where the
so called "Roma sparita" (the 17th - 19th century
"disappeared Rome", with all its lively, authentic
relations embedded in human qualities and with a human pace)
is still somehow in the air and in everyone's memory, generating
a nostalgic attitude.
All streets seem to lead to the stunning Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. The Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere (top) is
believed to be the most ancient dedicated to the Virgin in Rome. Although
the first church was built on the site in the 3rd Century, the present
structure was built in the 12th century according to the Romanesque
style. The interior decoration are of the baroque period. |
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"ROME DOMES": Fine 2 bedrooms 2 bathr. attic, with sitting room, dining room, large open plan kitchen, with 2 utmost panoramic terraces with views of Rome's domes, in an elegant historical palace facing the famous Tortoise fountain. Daily cleaning (4-5 persons). Elevator.
"TORTOISES": Finest 3 bedroom 3 bathroom apartment with sitting room, dining room, large terrace with views, in an elegant historical palace facing the famous Tortoise fountain. Excellent fittings and equipment. Daily cleaning. (3-6 persons). Elevator. |
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The quarter includes countless craftsmen shops, art shops
and art-house cinemas. At times it seems that every ground-floor
space is a restaurant, a pizzeria, a "piano-bar", a bookshop
with attached a cosy bar. In July there is a characteristic popular
festival, much attended by tourists and Roman alike, called "Festa
de Noantri", which means in Roman slang "Festival for
Ourselves". |
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Church of Santa Maria alla Scala,
with the priest cleaning the "scala" (the
stairs)...
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There are also beautiful churches, like Santa Maria della Scala
(top right), or Santa Cecilia. |
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During the two centuries before unification
(1870) there was a strong tradition of violent rivalry between
the "bulli trasteverini" (Trastevere toughs) and
the "monticiani" (the boys from Monti). The violent
clashes between gangs (an anticipation of West Side Story)
were narrated by poet Giuseppe Gioacchino Belli, whose statue
now adorns Piazza Belli at the beginning of Viale Trastevere
(top left).
Presently the quarter is very trendy, and is a desirable
place to live for American artists and for many assorted foreigners.
Consequently the price of housing is high. Yet the character
of the quarter is still visible (right).
The boisterous character, the fun loving vulgarity and the good-humoured cynicism of the Trasteverini as described by Belli (which are regarded nowadays as typical Roman popular traits) are seemingly kept alive as a cheerful fashion just to impress. Nevertheless one can still find old ladies sitting outside just for the pleasure of watching passers-by while they shell beans, or neighbours chatting to one-another from the windows etc.. The old character is still in the air.
(Right): Vicolo del Cinque, Sunday cleaning
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Porta Settimiana is the northern gate to the Vatican.
It continues with Via della Lungara, paved and widened by Pope Julius
II to mirror his Via Giulia on the other bank of the river. The
street has some of Rome's most splendid "palazzi", as Villa Farnesina with frescoes of Raphael, the Palazzo Corsini, and the adjacent beautiful Orto Botanico (Botanical Gardens). Just after there is Regina Coeli, the medieval prison of Rome, which is bound to be closed. |
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Porta Settimiana, the gate to the
Vatican
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Above Trastevere you find the Gianicolo, and after it Monteverde
Vecchio - top left photo, showing also Piazza San Cosimato where
veg morning market takes place. The Gianicolo is one of the seven
hills of Rome. It can be reached with the tortuous Via Garibaldi,
passing by the splendid baroque Fontana Paola. The view from
the Gianicolo is the most spectacular of Rome. The statue-dotted
pine tree gardens are dominated by the huge equestrian statue of
Giuseppe Garibaldi, close to which a cannon is fired every day at
noon. |
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On the other side of Viale (Italian for Avenue) Trastevere
there is a very renowned and popular flea market. It is called Porta Portese, as its traditional main entrance is this ancient
Roman gate near the Tiber and to its ancient
port of Rome.
It originated as a black market during World War II, and it
became very popular just after. Perhaps the most interesting
section is the one with antiques, in Via Ippolito
Nievo and in a section of Piazzale della Radio. The market is open only on Sunday mornings (if it does not rain!), and the
best bargains are achieved either very early (around 7 AM), or very late, at closing
time which is around 1-1.30 PM.
(Right): Porta Portese flee market: the antique furniture
section |
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Transportation
to the other quarters of the "centro storico" is excellent, especially by means of tram 8 running along Viale Trastevere. It is like
a subway actually, as it has own lanes, and it is very frequent, also with
many stops along the Viale. It arrives in a few minutes to Largo Argentina,
in the heart of the centre, at walking distance to any place or site of the centre. |
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To visit the other quarters and sights, please go to: |
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