Gelaterie, Pasticcerie, Caffe'
- ice cream parlors, confectionery shops, cafes -

Gelaterie, or ice cream parlors

Most Romans consider Giolitti in Via Uffici del Vicario 40 the best ice cream cafe' in town. Surely the place is very popular ("an institution" as we say in Rome), yet other places today appear trendier.
Il Gelato di San Crispino (Via Della Panetteria 54, near the Trevi Fountain, tel. 0670450412 - closed Tuesday) is today considered by most the best gelateria in Rome (some say of Italy). Flavors are perfectly balanced, and the ice cream superlative. It was founded by two brothers who studied in Florence, and who were inspired by Vivoli. Their philosophy is to have a specific preparation for every flavour (some invented by them), with maniacal attention to quality. Their renowned flavours are Pistachio, Chocolate with liqueur, and Zabaione made with natural eggs and 20 years old Marsala. Only tubs, as "cones interfere with the flavour".

Giolitti: two signori (gentlemen) stepping
out with their gelato (ice cream).


We also e recommend Fonte della Salute (the Fountain of Health, in Via Cardinal Marmagi 2, tel. 065897471).
Another fine parlor is Fiocco di Neve (Snow Flake, in Via del Pantheon 51, no phone).
We also recommend Gelatone, in the Monti quarter (Via dei Serpenti 28, tel. 064820187). Chef Paolo prepares about 100 flavours, including some he creates (for ex. "Crema Antica" - Ancient Cream).

If you like granite (ice cream slush), and particularly granita di caffe' (coffee ice cream slush), we recommend Cremeria Ottaviani (Via Leone IV 83/85, tel. 0637514774).

Il gelatone


Pasticcerie, or confectionery shops

There are many pastry shops in Rome, but few prepare excellent regional desserts. A good one is the Forno del Ghetto (the Ghetto's Baker, in Via del Portico d'Ottavia 20/b, tel. 06687637, closed on Friday after sundown, Saturday and on Jewish holidays. It is a tabby little place, literally a hole-in-the-wall, with women only personnel and no sign outside, preparing delicious Jewish take-away pastries made of a combination of candied fruit, raisins and marzipan (they are called Pizza Ebraica although they are sweet). They also prepare memorable ricotta cakes (with sour cherry jam or chocolate).
Traditional Roman cakes include Mostaccioli, Panpepato and Pangiallo, made with dried fruit, nuts and honey.

In the same street, just before the Portico (porch) of Ottavia , you will find Dolceroma (Sweet Rome, tel. 066892196), a classical pastry shop, with excellent Sacker Tort, and - surprise - American pies.

For more details, please visit the page of the Roman quarter or Ghetto.

 

The Forno del Ghetto

Caffe', or Cafes

In Rome, like elsewhere in Italy, you find cafe'-bars and cafes in any corner. The quality of coffee is usually very high, and what varies is the elegance of the cafe'-bar, its charm, and also the way customers are allowed to have beverages. Italians in fact usually have a quick coffee at the counter, while sitting and having drinks at the table is consistently more expensive, and it is possible only in quality cafe'-bars.
In Italian coffee is written caffe' and it is pronounced with stress on the last vowel (pron. Cahffaeh, don't forget the accent at the end, and the Italians will thus be impressed!).

The Italian terms you always wondered about

The "philosophy" of the Italian coffee is that water under high pressure should pass as fast as possible the coffee powder, thus the name espresso (express coffee). It is intensely aromatic, and very strong, and the Italians usually like it very concentrated (it is called "caffe' ristretto", or simply "ristretto"). If you want it more diluted, and hence with coffee filling the small cup up to the edge, ask for "caffe' lungo" (long). To most non-Italians, this is still too little, just filling the small espresso cup.
If you are American, we thus recommend that you ask for "Caffe' Americano": the barman will put the normal Italian coffee in a larger cappuccino cup, and dilute it with hot water. If you want some liqueur, then ask for "caffe' corretto" (literally revised coffee). Finally ask for "caffe' macchiato" (lit. stained coffee), if you want instead an additional splash of milk.
Of course then you know about cappuccino. Perhaps you don't know though that the name originates by its colour, which is the same of the habit of the Capuchin monks. As you know, it looks like a frothy white coffee. In fact, to prepare it with the espresso machine some steam is pumped into some milk, and then a normal espresso coffee is added. Some Italians add some cocoa powder on the surface.
The cappuccino must not be confused with caffellatte (milk and coffee, in which a generous quantity of hot milk is added to a normal espresso, without steam), and with latte macchiato (milk with a splash of previously prepared, cold coffee).

The most famous cafe'-bar in Rome is the Antico Caffe' Greco (Via dei Condotti 86, tel. 066791700), one of the three most ancient cafes in the world, with a very classical atmosphere, red-velvet chairs and marble tables. It hosted the likes of Byron, Shelley, Keats, Goethe, and Casanova. It is quite expensive, and a coffee or a glass of soda will cost you 5 Euro appr. 6 US$.
Rome's trendiest cafe and tearoom is perhaps though the Rosati (Piazza del Popolo 5, tel. 063225859), including also a dining room upstairs. Rosati never went out of style, and is a rendezvous of literati, artist, actors, and film directors. Another cafe'-bar attended by the literati is the Sant'Eustachio (Piazza Sant'Eustachio 82, tel. 06861309).
Romans say the best coffee is prepared though at the Tazza d'Oro (Golden cup, in Via degli Orfani, near the Pantheon, tel. 065835869).

 

The Antico Caffe' Greco


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